r/tradclimbing • u/i12drift • 17d ago

Optimizing weight

Before going to redrocks, I bought some new weight savings items cuz im a nutter-butter and felt like blowing my promotion/retention bonus on superfluous climbing gear. It was definitely noticeable.

We were going to do Epinephrine but opted not to cuz we didn't wanna wake up mega early. Instead, we flew in and did Birdland on day1, Johnny Vegas into Solar Slab on day2, and then The Great Red Book + fly out on day3.

Without going into the nitty gritty details, my multipitch gear swaps/changes led to:

  • 4x less alpine carabiners = 132g reduction
  • 8x 60cm slings --> 7x lighter 60cm slings = 50g reduction
  • 2x 120cm slings --> 2x lighter 120cm slings = 16g reduction
  • 1x 240cm sling + 2x HMS --> lighter 240cm + 1x HMS = 77g reduction
  • A few cam swaps = 63g reduction (already owned, just optimized what was brought)
  • 16x lighter cam carabiners = 78g reduction
  • rappel device + carabiner swaps = 37g reduction
  • lighter harness = 160g reduction
  • no more personal anchor = 172g reduction
  • 5x extra carabiners (lol) --> 1x extra carabiner = 147g reduction
  • nuts + nut tool change = 88g reduction

My gear's weight went from 11.75 pounds to 9.5 pounds; A 2.25 pound reduction!

Megan participated in the 'weight loss' shinanigans by swapping from her 3,990g Sterling 70m rope to a 3360g 70m Beal opera; Another 1.33 pounds.

Individually, each piece of gear swap felt minor, but they all added up to a noticable difference. We both agree we didn't notice the rope weight difference except for during the approach.

15 Upvotes

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12

u/Conscious-Music3264 17d ago

Am loving that the removal of the PAS is the biggest weight saving for the zero reduction in functionality. Could you pare down the number of cams and wires further?

18

u/wildfyr 16d ago

Way too many people carry a PAS.

Just clove to the rope at anchors and extend your rap with an double length sling

1

u/BigRed11 16d ago

Eh I'm much more likely to use an adjustable PAS than a double on most climbs I do, it makes my systems way safer and faster.

1

u/theschuss 10d ago

Eh, the ease of use is worth the weight in a lot of cases. It's about 5x faster in changing systems and more usable as you can go tight to the anchor while swapping things over for raps etc, then loosen it up without exiting the system so you can test your new one. You CAN do that with slings and stuff like a biner on a bight, but it's way more fiddly. 

0

u/turbogaze 16d ago

PAS are pretty worthless once you know how to tie a clove hitch. Maybe for cleaning sport anchors but even then there’s plenty of other easy ways to do it

6

u/TradClimbinIsNeither 16d ago

theyre good for rope soloing and aid climbing, the rest - no need

2

u/GregorMcTaint 16d ago

They are pretty important for fix and follow, and all my homies fix and follow these days.

1

u/turbogaze 16d ago

Even for aid a daisy chain is probably better lol

3

u/goodquestion_03 16d ago

Daisys work but definitely not better. Petzl adjustable PAS with the cord replaced with a longer section of 8mm or something similar is pretty much the standard among everyone I know that aid climbs.

1

u/thegroverest 16d ago

How do you setup rappels without a PAS

5

u/N-Y-G-S-T-D-F 16d ago

Use a sling

3

u/turbogaze 16d ago

A sling is already on your rack as part of an alpine draw. Even while sport climbing I carry one in case of wandering. Or a quick draw. A PAS is a redundant single use piece of gear. With a sling you can shorten it by tying an overhand. With quick draws you can link a couple together since you’re just resting body weight and not dynamic forces. Theres just no reason to carry it. If you’re just single pitch sport cragging then yeah who really cares though. Either way I don’t have to carry it so everyone do as you please 🙏

1

u/Newtothisredditbiz 16d ago edited 16d ago

I like having a PAS because it’s longer and easier to set up redundantly and equalized at an anchor than a 120cm sling. I can also use it to build anchors if I don’t have enough suitable slings or cordalette.

I can clip in at multiple points and shorten it without having to tie knots. It’s far easier to stow away when unused, and retrieve it when needed.

Edit: A PAS also makes a handy and convenient rappel extension for setting up a prussik under easily.

3

u/turbogaze 16d ago

I just use the rope to build anchors if I run out of stuff idk.. but again it's not like it's harming anyone you do you papi

1

u/Newtothisredditbiz 16d ago

That’s more of a hassle, papi, especially if someone plans on leading the next pitch or tossing both ends to rappel, papi.

1

u/thegroverest 16d ago

Which effectively becomes a PAS