Everyone see what’s wrong?!

Hi all, wondering how tricky a job it would be to replace our fence. We’d just like a simple, 6ft featherboard fence (probably with timber posts and gravel board… I know they won’t last as long as concrete but prefer the look).

We’ve just finished up our right hand side but this was a doddle - just affixing timbers to our neighbours wall.

My concern is the existing, short concrete posts already in place. Would you just rip everything out and start again? From my experience with the right hand fence, the concrete posts go down really deep, so I ended up just cutting them about 100mm below ground level.

Appreciate any thoughts on this and how tricky it could be / potential things that may catch us out.

Moody teenager slammed door and broke handle, I undid all the screws but it’s on tight won’t move at all.

Do I need to wedge something in pry to remove the side first?

This is two of six sheets, so a couple hundred ££ down the drain. Frustrating but my own fault for not thinking.

It's already feeling bubbly along the joint.

I’m in need of a new toilet seat but I don’t know which company of the ones I’ve looked at so far has the best quality ones that are gonna last and test the stand of time.

Plumbers and or toilet experts and connoisseurs please let me know the best place in your opinion in terms of quality, price and durability.

So I want to make a corner area where it is slatted like the photo below (ignore red circle)
I’ve put posts in the ground 400mm deep and I’m using 50x50 2.4m posts and concreted them in and spaced out 1.3m per each post and I have 3 posts. Will the 50x50 be strong enough?
Thanks

Finally got round to pointing the Yorkshire stone path today.

As was pointed out in my last post, the entrance end looks a bit quirky perhaps but once there's plants growing around it I don't think it'll be too noticeable.

Quite pleased with the end result. Just need to come up with a plan for the edging.

In order of preference:

1. Rake out the rubble on the wall side and plant some hardy herbs like thyme and lavender.

2. Chuck down some gravel

3. Lay something to fill the gap, think it'll look too harsh against the wall and slabs.

Hi,

From what I understand there used to be some old sliding patio doors before the back door was changed

Can this brown wooden plank thing be removed? Or at least cladded over to make it look better on the eye?

I bought this chandelier and wish to put up in my living room but as it was antique I don’t have any mounting bracket for it. Does anyone know how and what I would need to put this up? Also I wish to put a ceiling rose up first before I secure this to the ceiling.

We have a rechargeable fan. The wife dropped it in the night, and it's snapped at the base.

What's the best method of repair here? The fan is above this, so it does hold weight.

(Partially dismantled for ease of repair. Cable can't come out.)

UV Resin? Super glue? Give up?

I want to remove this handrail but the bolt head edges look rather worn as if someone else has tried and gave up. What would be the best tool to remove it? Dynamite is not an option. 😇

Hi, I’m building kitchen island (tall table on four legs) and I would like to be able to move it on occasions. Is there a way to bring sockets(on side) to construction in legal/safe way? I would like to just plug island socket, but everyone saying it’s fire hazard, but what I don’t get how is it different from normal extension?

Edit:

Thank you for ideas, opinions and education in Woodworking geography.

The round bit of the door locking mechanism catches the top of that flat part on the door frame. Can I find something to easily file it a few millimeters or is there something else to do?

Fixed! Thanks all!!

This is the first floor. Below, on the ground floor, we’ve got a log burner that we occasionally use. We want to keep the log burner, but this is pretty ugly. What are my options for removing this? Can I just smash off the front but (facade?) and block it up? if so, what do it use?

We’re in a bit of a nightmare situation and hoping someone can help or point us in the right direction.

We ordered bathroom tiles from a bathroom supplier and our tiler has now fitted almost the entire bathroom, only for us to discover we’re 3 tiles short and the tiles are discontinued. The manufacturer have changed the colour slightly but enough to really not work. The supplier have basically been no help and won’t tell us who the actual manufacturer/importer is, so we’re struggling to source extras elsewhere.

We only need 3 tiles to finish the room.

We’ve checked the boxes for codes and are trying Google Lens etc, but thought it was worth asking here in case:

anyone recognises the tile
knows who manufactures VP tiles
has leftover boxes from a previous project
or has any other ideas

Tile details:

Size: 295 x 295mm Part No:CHOCBLU. 
Finish: Matt
Product name from VP: Chatsworth Octagon dark blue & white Mosaic Tile Sheet

I’ve attached photos of the tile.

We’re based in Berkshire but happy to pay postage from anywhere in the UK if someone happens to have spare tiles.

Any help massively appreciated — currently feeling slightly sick about the whole thing.

Hello DIYuk,

I need to replace this small door because the bottom is rotten, and the swelling during winter is not helping with the ease of opening.

Ideally, I would choose uPVC or composite, as wood is bound to rot eventually even if it is treated.

However, I cannot find anywhere online to make a "made to measure" door like this, as most options are for full doors. Any help or links will be much appreciated.

I'm looking at replacing the existing sink basin in our downstairs WC with a new vanity unity (Something like this - https://www.wickes.co.uk/Nuie-Arno-Midnight-Blue-2-Door-Freestanding-Vanity-Unit+Basin/p/9000281451)

I've taken on some DIY projects over the years but plumbing is something i'm normally hesitant to attempt.

Given the existing pipe set up should it be easy enough to remove the existing taps and replace them without too much specialist knowledge or tools?

(I know this post isn't DIY, but the actual work I will be DIYing)

want to add some velux windows in my hallway and also move a structural beam that's below ceiling height in the downstairs hallway above ceiling height, so basically conceal it in the floor.

I spoke to building control and I obviously need a building warrant so they said either get a structural engineer to do some drawings or you can also involve an architect.

I spoke to a structural engineer who said they would need architect drawings and then they would add their part to it.

Got an architect out and all in they quoted £2500 for the combined architect and structural engineer fees, and £550 for the building warrant application. (including them submitting it on my behalf)

This is a standard ceiling height / not a massive hallway or anything, just moving a beam and adding velux windows.

So I have a few questions:

- Is it correct that structural engineers alone can't / don't do drawings for this sort of thing?

- Is this typical pricing? As I've never used an architect / structural engineer before I have no idea, but £3k before I even do anything for what to me seemed like pretty minor changes seems really expensive.

Any input would be great. I'm in Scotland as well.

Hi,

I need to attach something that makes my armchair easier to move.

Due to smaller than average room size I need to move the chair every day as its also my bedroom but the original runners that came with the chair have come off. I replaced them with more stick on rubber runners but they too are falling off.

I'm looking for something more rigid and durable but I honestly have no idea how to add wheels or castors to the frame of the chair.

I only have lino over wood flooring where the chair is maneuvered.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Apologies, DIY amateur here!

I’ve bought a new house that has a lot of raised planters with hardwood coping stained with sikkens cetol HLS.

I’m looking to re-stain it all as it’s looking weathered, looks like when built to fill the gaps at the mitred edges they have used some kind of shim, probably out of the same wood. A lot are missing and I need to replace and/or fill these gaps before staining.

What would be the best solution and most novice friendly solution? Concerned wood filler will just crack. Thanks!

(Images of existing shim)

I have 5 sheds with tools that might come in handy and my wife thinks it’s too many.
How many do you have ?

Started with an overgrown mess and converted it to a low-maintenance hardscape. I executed every phase of this build myself: groundwork, sub-base, paving, raised beds, and limestone gravel installation. I saved £5k-£8k on landscaping firm fees. Proof that you can avoid heavy contractor costs if you are willing to put in the labor.