It’s called a bed slinger for a reason. You set it up and then because of space you have to use it as your bed. Luckily the A2L will have a “night night” mode that heats the bed up to a comfy temp to sleep at!
Yeah, there's an upper limit to how large a bed slinger can be before it starts having to move too slowly on the Y axis to be reasonable. Inertia's a thing.
I owned 2 of Creality's CR-10S5 Printers which were 500mm³ however they sucked hard due to them basically being a standard old school cr10 with bigger rails and no tech to support the bigger size. I believe bambulab could 100% do a 500mm³ printer but I'm not sure I'd want it to be a bed slinger
Can’t see something so huge. The a1 already takes so much space for the moving bed. Or maybe they change the system entirely and the plate don’t move and it’s a modified rail system where the bed don’t go up and down but the toolhead does. Someone even spoke about a cnc module. And if we look at a cnc system it’s possible
But how would that work? If I get warping on the A1 Mini already sometimes, I can't imagine how a bed this large without enclosure could perform without warping.
Hmm. Oftentimes when I try to print something that covers the whole or most of the printing area in one direction, for example boxes of varying sizes, I have the corners lifting off more or less, or the build plate lifting off instead.
(And I always make sure the plates are clean, for something large I often use the Supertack plate and / or large brims, and I also design my stuff with round corners). I accepted it as part of the material properties and process with a not enclosed printer, but since some people are writing that there shouldn't be warping with the A1 Mini I would be thankful for further tips.
I also have these problems with my enclosed printers (whether I’m printing enclosed or venting). It’s mostly just the science of how things cool and their thermal properties.
If you aren’t already, every so often clean with PLAIN Dawn branded soap (others may have additives that coat the surface) and let it air dry / use a microfiber towel.
Another good option is using Vision Miner nano polymer adhesive. It’s a build plate adhesive, and it works wonders. If you let the parts cool fully, it will last 10-15 prints worth at least. VM saved me from throwing my Ender 3 with glass plate out the window.
Who TF is printing ABS with a bedslinger? I was talking about PLA & PETG. I never tried ABS, went straight to ASA on my enclosed printers since it’s less fumes and prints better.
It literally isn't.
A component overheats, fails, and stops being hot.
It does not create nearly enough energy to crwate an external fire.
Never has.
It's a reliability issue, but it's not a fire hazard.
If you think it is, you spend too much time on this sub.
There's a million A1s and a few hundred failures. It's rare, and only on a faulty batch.
It's solved moving forward, and they replace failed (and healthy!) boards for free.
Again, precisely zero actual fires. Go touch grass.
The component that fails heats up, melts a spot of plastic, and dies, stops being hot. There has not been a single fire, as it fails exactly as designed to not be capable of starting a fire.
Probably people wanting to get into the hobby inexpensively. There's always going to be a market for a cheap entry point for newcomers and people who can't or don't want to spend as much.
The 8+ year old Creality Cr-10 series (300x300; 400x400; 500x500) could already do this. My Cr-10s could print ABS just fine, but it's obviously not optimal or easy as other materials.
Same thing happening with the uv printers similar to eufy. Every darn chinese company is putting out a kickstarter (mostly) or releasing direct to website. Two weeks ago they gave us a timer before they raise price to msrp. Now they're $1000 more than previously. :/
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u/Engineary 4d ago
Gotta be larger than 300x300 plate, at minimum?
I'm excited! My A1 is great, but I would love to go that little bit bigger on a few of my prints.